Winter Walks (9) – Žižkov

Another cold day in Prague. I took the bus to visit Žižkov, one of the Prague quarters, just a little (North/West) part of it. In fact I went there to look for shoes :-).

View to Karlin Viaduct (now in reconstruction).

Crossing the border of Žižkov, Military History Institute in Prague: The Army Museum Žižkov in the middle of the picture.

I took a bus, it needs just 5 minutes from city center and I am here at Tachovske náměstí with some street art.

Horses.

Details on the buidling connected with Hussites (and Žižka) history.

Pedestrian tunnel under Vitkov Hill back to Karlin.

I look at the tunnel, but today I am not going there. I am even not going South and Up, where one of the most visible Prague landmarks is, Žižkov Tower, you can read about it in one of my previous posts about Prague towers here.

Žižkov TV Tower.

Another famous landmark of Prague in Žižkov is one of the biggest equestrian statues of Jan Žižka. But today I also wanted to make a picture of another equestrian status, of Jaroslav Hašek. Reading his book of Good Soldier Švejk (happening during the first world war) you can learn about Czech character and sense of humor, we even use the word “švejkovani” (švejking) after the main character, meaning something like: pretending being stupid to get something I want and not to get something I don’t want (like punishment for what I have done or something):-). The statue is quite interesting as well.

Jaroslav Hašek.

My goal is a visit to the shop with men’s fashion (I love them :-)) to look at their new shoes for my husband. I visit the place for the first time and it is quite nice with lot of interesting design supplements. The name of the shop is Gentleman Store.

Gentlema Store Shop.

The next place I really want to visit here is unique cubist Bethlehem chapel hidden at the backyard. The chapel is in use and unfortunately is closed now, as there is not any ceremony at the moment. But even from outside it is nice.

The entrance from the street to the courtyard.

The chapel itself.

Some details of the exterior.

Even today it is really really cold and I just need to go home, therefore I climb up the streets for a tram. During the walk I meet Czech writer Karel Havlíček Borovský in the middle of the square with some of his quotation written on the street.

Karel Havlíček Borovský.

The text bellow:
The honest one suffers from hunger
Thieves are at risk of gallows
The Czech writer has more troubles
He is at risk of hunger and gallows

A poem.

No one there to listen to him. No one wants to freeze :-)-

Empty chairs.

Some of the buildings at Žižkov are uninhabited, empty.

Street art doors.

Another street art piece on the wall.

What’s the time?

And quite new picturesque colorful building.

Studio Pokrok.

Couple of colorful windows.

And finally just under the tram stop, a memorial to Jaroslav Seifert, Czech author, who won Nobel price.

Jaroslav Seifert Memorial.

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Winter Walks (8) – just around us

Today it was so cold that I decided to walk only around our place, have a coffee and and back home.

First are the buildings on our street, like the newly reconstructed Lanna palace (sorry, link only in Czech).

Lanna House.

Or Cafe Arco (soory link in Czeck again, but you can read there the list of people who were regulars to the cafe), where Franz Kafka used to come (but not regularly, but would not find the doors opened today, as the cafe is not in use.

Cafe Arco.

Not talking about touristic highlight of the Powder Gate / Tower at the end of the street.

Hybernská street with Powder Tower at the end.

Some other buildings on our street.

Where is also nice Podzemní antikvariát (Underground bookshop) – shop selling old books, print etc.

The entrance to the Underground bookshop.

And at the same building you will find this beautiful “detail”.

Hall? Balcony?

The oldest train station in Prague Masarykovo nádraží, on the opposite side of the street.

Masaryk train station.

My goal today is to visit another one of my favored cafes Kavárna Pražírna Voznice at YMCA palace. At the palace I will also show you something quite unique.

But still we have couple of steps to get there around Hilton Old Town with beautiful mosaic and through the shortcut to Na Poříčí street.

And we are there, at YMCA palace.

The main corridor of YMCA palace.

AND NOW the surprise. YMCA palace is one of the places in Prague where you can see and actually use the pater noster lift. That’ the one with lot of cabins permanently moving around and you jump in and out, when you want to use it. Even more adrenaline you drive at the top (or bottom) of the lift, but be careful as this is forbidden (the sign VYSTUPTE means EXIT NOW).

Find my reportage from the ride bellow, I was playing a little with time-lapse, so please survive my “creativity”.

Or you can just use the stairs in YMCA palace :-).

Up at the palace.

I think I have deserved the delicious cafe then :-).

Kavárna Pražírna Voznice.

Nice filter cafe.

Before you leave its good to use this one (specially when it is so cold outside).

Entrance to the bathroom at YMCA.

Outside from the palace, and you can take tram, subway, go shopping to Palladium or just simply walk home in this cold.

St. Joseph’s Church and monastery.

The list of pater nosters in Prague here (some of them closed = zrušené).

Winter Walks (7) – Yards of the Old Town (1)

This post can be either in Night Walks or Winter, as I went out at the evening and it was freeezing :-). But still it was very beautiful to visit hidden yards and places just around the Old Town Square. Finally I decided to split the photos to before and after dark. And this post is about the before-sunset one :-).

I was happy to have a chance to visit the premises of the Monastery of Minor Brothers next to the Saint James Church at the Old Town. Its best years were in 14 century, when the weeding dinner of Czech King John of Luxembourg and his bride Elisabeth from Royal Czech Premyslid family (parents of Czech King and Roman Emperor Charles IV)) took place, next wedding celebration was the one of John and his second wife Beatrix. You can rent this place even now :-).

The refectory / ceremonial hall.

With its beautiful courtyard:

Paradise court of the monastery.

And even better pictures at the gallery:

After the visit of the monastery I have just wandered around the area, where originally meat and fish markets used to be, so the names of the streets will not surprise you – Masná (Meet st) or Rybná (Fish st) – and also the house signs reminds you of this business.

House U Podvinů

From Týnská street is also nice view to the spires of the Church Our Lady in front of the Tyn (Ungelt), or as we call it shortly Tyn or Ungelt, even thought the Tyn (or Ungelt, which is the same but in German and we historically use both names as synonyms) is in fact the courtyard behind the church.

Tyn church.

From Týnská street you can visit hidden courtyards.

Týnská 15.

Take a seat. Or not?

And as the dark is coming, you can also see the ceilings through the windows in enlightened interiors.

Look at the ceiling.

And finally some warming up in my favorite Cathedral Cafe.

Cathedral cafe.

Look through to its courtyard.

Cathedral cafe.

Winter Walks (6) – Hidden Old Town

After the CTU Rector Inauguration Ceremony and having a warm coffe at Choco Cafe (read about it here) I went wandering the back streets of the Old Town.
I love just walking the small streets just a step from the main touristic streets, which sometime look like a death ends, looking up for the house signs and visiting Czech shops.

U Voříkovských.

Hidden in the streets is St. Jilji church where the Oscar Winning Amadeus movie was taken.

I love the super quality Czech cosmetic Havlíkova Přírodní Apotéka.

Havlíkova Přírodní Apotéka.

Which is also perfect as a gift. I use it quite often and now I needed some eye cream :-).

… and inside.

After shopping time I go around popular restaurant U Vejvodů.

U Vejvodů.

And around the museum of toilets, which is unfortunately closed already.

Historical toilets.

Another warming is needed and I haven’t been to this tearoom U Zlatého Kohouta (Golden Rooster) for ages. I know, they have open fire and that is exactly what is needed now.

Tearoom entrance.

the interior.

My jasmine Monkey tea and journal from the cosmetic shop, I just have to do the puzzle and hope I will win something.

Monkey tea and the journal.

At the same street I find a shop with beautiful Czech porcelain, which is called Leander.

Leander.

On the way home I walk through the scenery for some old-time movie (there is always some movie-shooting going on in Prague). Currently Orlando Bloom lives in Prague for couple of month, shooting some TV set (I think :-)).

Shopping carriage.

More carriages.

Old advertising “banner”.

As this walk followed the Inauguration of the Rector, I also made couple of photos of memorials to worldwide famous scientists I have met on my walk.

Other Winter Walks you can find on these links:
1. Letná
2. Vyšehrad
3. Vršovice (1)
4. Vršovice (2)
5. Kampa

The series about Night Walks can be found here:
1. Prague Castle

Winter Walks (5) – Kampa

Not much words about this well-known part of Prague, just pictures with winter atmosphere :-).

Vltava river from Legie’s bridge, see Vysehrad on the horizon.

Lock on the river, next to Children’s island (nice to visit btw), behind the lock one of the best jazz cluba – Jazzdock.

Freezing river, but its too warm to freeze completely, this is maximum.

Finally the Kampa island direction, the building is former Sova’s mill, now Museum Kampa of modern art.

Another one, now you can see Charles Bridge and the Old Town on the other side of the river.

Former fish restaurant, not working after the floods.

Babies next to Kampa Museum, author: David Cerny.

The park is beautiful even in winter.

Certovka – the Devil’s streem.

Blue Fox house sign on the Estonian Embassy building.

Other Winter Walks you can find on these links:
1. Letná
2. Vyšehrad
3. Vršovice (1)
4. Vršovice (2)
5. Kampa

The series about Night Walks can be found here:
1. Prague Castle

Winter Walks (4) – Vrsovice (2)

Second part of our Vrsovice freezing walk, first one here.

Balcony in front of Rangherka with view to the church and nice building of saving company.

Our walk went on to the church and the area behind it, as it looks like you went directly from the city to small village with homesteads from 19 century in Botic stream valley, under protection now, but currently not available to go closer or inside.

What’s-behind-the-church gallery

One more street art on new reconstructed building.

Nice glasses :-).

Finally we crossed the border of Vrsovice back to Vinohrady area to visit Havlickovy sady (Havlicek’s Gardens). I have visited these gardens (and vineyards) many times, but always from the Vinohrady side, to visit the popular vineyard gazebo or nice grotta(east part), but never been to the western part until now. Therefore I was nicely surprised by the architecture and views from here.

Garden building with balcony, secret stairs and hidden places.

Details in the gallery:

View to Nusle and Bohdalec.

After the walking on the freeze we needed to warm and have some more hot drinks, and we visited nice Cafe Kavárna Pavilon Grébovka for tea and coffee.

Pavilon Grébovka.

Lovely and sunny, but we decided to sit inside. 🙂

With the coffee we fulfilled our daily plan for walk and drink and took tram home, with enjoying more beautiful buildings around the Gardens.

New York in Prague 🙂 (you must look closer to the sign on the light green building).

U Havlickovych sadu street, beutiful living

Other Winter Walks you can find on these links:
1. Letná
2. Vyšehrad
3. Vršovice (1)
4. Vršovice (2)
5. Kampa

The series about Night Walks can be found here:
1. Prague Castle

Winter Walks (3) – Vrsovice (1)

Another beautiful day in Prague, yeah, I know, it is freezing and it is getting colder and colder -9°C/15°F right now. But the sun shines like crazy and it almost makes you feel warm, when outside.

I decided to take a walk through the part of Prague, which in fact looks like Paris. It is called Vrsovice and it is more residential area with nice cafes and pubs, and it is not a coincidence that the famous Krymska (Crimea) street (nightlife) is there as well. The area is also really cosmopolitan, as you can guess from the streets names :-).

When I have finished this post, it looked to long to me, so I decided to split it in two. The second one is on this link (will be added after the second post will be published :-)): Winter Walks (4) – Vrsovice (2)

Mosaics by Free Mosaic

As there was a problem in the tram traffic today, we decided to walk to our destination through Vinohrady area, with some street art and first republic (1918-1938) villas and “colonia Svoboda (Freedom)”. This Colonia was realized between 1921-1924 as simple, but healthy and comfortable living at the new part of Prague. And it is in my favorite Artdeco – rondo cubist architectonic style.

One of the colonia’s double-houses in Czech traditional colors red and white and blue

And another one, this time villa in rondo cubism in red and white as well

Through the villas area we moved to the Parisien style quarter on this street:

Pink house at Norska (Norwegian) street

balcony detail at the same street

And doors in the gallery

After this little walk we entered one of the most popular cafes – Cafe Jen, but you can choose another one, like Cafe Slagr or Cafe Tvoje Mama (Your Mother), as cafe Jen was quite busy and we have to wait to find a place to sit. But then we have enjoyed our filter cafe and some warm and cozy atmosphere.

Cafe Jen from the outside

and the interior, just a short moment before the empty seats were taken

Warmed by the coffee we wandered on Kodanska (Copenhagen) street.

Just a normal residential house at Kodanska

and another one

and beautiful gables at the gallery

We continued to Heroldovy sady (Herold’s Gardens) with a book stall (we had to check it for something interesting) and nicely reconstructed palace Rangherka (seniors house now).

Rangherka from the bottom, originally built in 19 century by the entrepreneur in silk business Jindrich Rangheri, used also for breeding the silkworms and mulberry orchard with 200 trees next to it.

Gazebo above the stairs next to Rangherka.

Church if St Nicholas, baroque reconstruction from 1704, bell in the tower from 1511 and the clocks shows hours and phases of the moon as well.

Another view from the balcony to Husuv sbor (Hussite / reformed church) at Vrsovice Square, Nusle valley and Bohdalec hill on the horizon.

Find more at the second post about our walk in the next post.

Other Winter Walks you can find on these links:
1. Letná
2. Vyšehrad
3. Vršovice (1)
4. Vršovice (2)
5. Kampa

The series about Night Walks can be found here:
1. Prague Castle

Winter Walks (2) – Vysehrad

Vyšehrad (“higher castle”) is so connected with Czech history and the oldest legends from father Czech coming to Bohemia and settling here to be the place of the last resting place (as we call the cemetery) of famous Czech people. Vyšehrad is located a little bit far from the main touristic attractions, that can be the reason why it is so much loved by Czech people, visiting the place in every season, during day and night and enjoying its quiet space. Visiting beer garden (in summer), jogging, walking dogs or kids.

I visit this place often and in this cold but sunny day I decided to visit it with my camera. But I haven’t made the most popular pictures, just some views from Vyšehrad, and then I oriented more at the cemetery and church.

Vyšehrad is now a fortress, surrounded by walls and couple of entrance gates. The main entrance (Tabor’s gate) is followed by Špička (Top) gate, you will find just part of it, as the original gothic gate is gone now, and what remained is occupied by information center with model of Vyšehrad area. And finally there is the baroque Leopold’s gate to enter the area.

Tennis courts under the bastions and Leopold’s gate

Just behind the gate you will find one of the oldest buildings in Prague, the rotund of St. Martin, three of the remaining rotunds in Prague area.

St Martin’s rotund

I never miss going to the view to the South of Prague, where Podolí quarter is. Silver river is beautiful and unlike the Central area of Prague (around Charles Bridge), the river is quite narrow and deep here. If you have a chance to listen the music composition My Country by Bedrich Smetana, listen (at least) to the part which is called Vltava, and when you hear the royal fanfare, it means the river enters Prague under Vyšehrad rock.

River coming to Prague from the South

The I walked around Vyšehrad on the rampart with more views and finally there is the view to the Prague Castle.

The rampart walk with the church at the back

One more river with sport island and little port

Prague Castle and the whole city center in one view

St Peter and Paul’s basilica is wonderful piece of architecture, completely rebuild in puristic Gothic style by Josef Mocker at the end of 19 century. Surprisingly the interior is very colorful and decorated in art nouveau style.

Gallery (click on the picture to enlarge it)

After visiting the church I found myself wandering through the cemetery of famous Czech people, finding the names and tombs which I skip the other times, so lot of them were “new” for me as well. I love the cemetery as there you can learn a lot about our history, about our traditions, about our clever people, inventors, musicians, and others. And it is not only about people who are buried there, but also the tombstones itself are art pieces by popular artists, showing who lies underneath.

Gallery – click on the picture to see the full size

From Vyšehrad I descended to the river to make a picture of the less photographed cubist house and the to Náplavka next to the river, which was empty today but for weekend it changes to be the favorite farmers market place.

Gallery – click on the picture to see the full size

Josef Chochol cubist house under Vyšehrad

Náplavka on Vltava river

Náplavka with sauna on the river

Stairs up to the street

Another post about Vysehrad you can find here.

Other Winter Walks you can find on these links:
1. Letná
2. Vyšehrad
3. Vršovice (1)
4. Vršovice (2)
5. Kampa

The series about Night Walks can be found here:
1. Prague Castle

Winter Walks (1) – Letna

Prague is lovely city also in winter, when the number of tourists slows down (but not that much as expected). It can be freezing but when the sun shines, its nice and almost warm for nice walk. Find some pictures from the winter walk on Letná hill and area, which rises above the river and the Old Town to combine walk in the nature with beautiful views with wandering through the residential area with hipster cafes, pubs, or design places.

Buildings built on bastions of Prague walls

I started my walk at Hradčanská tram stop and walked by the former ramparts around the Prime Minister villa for the views to the river from Hanavský Pavilion.

Hanavský Pavilion was built in 1891 for the Jubilee World Fair, it is cast-iron structure built as a representation pavilion (commercial) for Iron and Steel Company.

The view from here is really beautiful :-),

Vltava river and some of its bridges (Mánes bridge, Charles bridge, …)

… and you even see the Prague Castle behind the Prime Minister villa.

And then I walked in the edge of the hill, enjoying the weather, watching dogs plays, joggers, seniors or mothers with babies walking around, not missing the view of Prague.
One of the most favorite places is also the monument, where the biggest monument of Joseph Stalin used to be, but now metronome and meeting point of young people is.

Metronome on large marble pedestal ( walk down the stairs and find stones from the whole Czech Republic incorporated to the pedestal) and the shoes.

My steps goes to the sporty area, finally I decide not to got to the cafe here but buy a cup at a stand and sit in the beer garden at the Letna Castle with views to the Old Town. The weather is too nice and even it is freezing, there is more people enjoying the sun rays and even cyclists drive by.

Winter cafe at the beer garden at Letná.

More garden in gallery:

After the sunbath I walked around the tunnel ventilation (see picture) between the Technical and Agricultural Museum to the Letohradská street with famous functionalist buildings and finally took a seat in one very famous and photogenic cafe – Cafe Letka for warming with a cup of cappuccino.

Café Letka

Cafe Letka is always full of people.

More cafe in gallery:

And even the weather was nice I decided to slowly finish my tour with some window shopping at the design stores on Letna’s main street (CVRK, Scoro Coco) and old time cafe with delicious sweets (Erhartova Cukrárna).

I didn’t miss the beautiful details on the buildings around me …

…and then I took the tram home.

Tram traffic.

Other Winter Walks you can find on these links:
1. Letná
2. Vyšehrad
3. Vršovice (1)
4. Vršovice (2)
5. Kampa

The series about Night Walks can be found here:
1. Prague Castle