Up You Look (2) – Masaryk’s Waterfront

Masarykovo nábřeží (Masaryk’s Waterfront) is a waterfront on the right bank of Vltava River in Prague. It is bordered by the Jirásek’s and Legion bridges. Opposite from the waterfront you can find Slavic Island, you can read about it and see some pictures in recommendations section here.
The waterfront was named after our first president Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk (pres. 1918-1938), but it happened as late as in 1990 year. Before it was named after our first communistic president Klement Gottwald (pres. 1948-1953). And during the WWII it was called Reinhard Heydrich Ufer, as the whole waterfront of Vltava River.

Waterfront from the island.

The place is quite crowded with tram and car traffic. Up to 19th century this place was just a beach next to the river with mills and workmen “jirchář”, who were processing the leather there.

Waterfront from the Legion Bridge.

Now you will find quite beautiful buildings there, National Theater – this one deserves separated post, Goethe Institute building with fantastic sculpture decoration on the roof, Hlahol building built for Hlahol singing choir and being home of our first republic and later (1918-1942) movie stars; and we cannot forget water tower Šítkovská věž and modern building of Mánes House of artist above the river (between the embankment and the island).

Slavic Island (left) and Water Tower and Mánes House of artists.

The architect of the waterfront concept was František Sander, and we can see the frescoes of the works done on the building number 30 (in the gallery picture: nabrezi (15), the one with the knight, bellow him).

Gallery of the details above your head:

The author of former bank house, now Goethe Institut, was director or the Art school Jiří Stibral and the statues were done by Ladislav Šaloun (he is on plan to have his own post).

Goethe Institute.

One of the most important art nouveau houses is the Hlahol house, done by architect Josef Fanta (Main Train Station in Prague) with mosaic (Karel Klusáček).

Hlahol.

And if you need to go the bathroom (Toalety in Czech) after looking so much up, there is a nice place down 🙂 under the National Theatre (do not promise they are working).

Toalety above the river.

One more nice building on the waterfront.

Red house.

For you who needs a coffee after this tour, visit one of the most famous ones: Slavia cafe (surprisingly I do not have a picture, as I always forgot to make one) or Savoy cafe on the other side of the river.

Cafe Savoy, větrník is a must have.

Advertisement

Up You Look (1) – Strossmajerák

Another moment for some winter pictures from Prague. Today I had to go for new glasses (the first ones for reading) and quite like the glass shop and workshop) at Strossmayer Square in Bubny (“Drums”) area (Holešovice Quarter), that I have found wandering around couple of months ago (another walk close to this area here).

This area is really beautiful and you don’t have to go anywhere far, in fact I have walked just 4 little streets (circling around Dukelských Hrdinů, Heřmanova, Pplk. Sochora and the Square) and yet I was able to find lot of details above my head.

Dukelských Hrdinů 39.

Under the attic of this beautiful house you will find portraits of famous Czech Kings and Emperors:

.

Two more houses and you see the ladies of our history (Dukelských Hrdinů 43).

Most of the buildings are around 100 years old.

Strossmayerovo náměstí 10.

In the gallery you can find lot of details you can see just looking up above your head.

Nice scene at the entrance to the restaurant Domažlická jizba.

Domažlická jizba.

The dominant of the whole square is the church of St Anthony of Padua.

St Anthony of Padua.

Window.

More about the church here.

We are going to this Church on Christmas to see their Nativity Scene, which is quite nice. Church is open to public almost all day and it has beautiful stained glass windows and status of Mary in the cave.

Mary in the cave

Altar

After the visit of the church there is one last shot of colorful building of former Civic Saving Bank, where the word “záložna” (saving bank, but literally something like: put there your money for worse time) has very nostalgic feelings, as we do not use it much nowadays, but historically it had some sound :-).

Dukelských hrdinů 29

Museums Of Prague (1) – DOX

There is a lot of museums in Prague, some of them I like and visit, some of them are traditional. I will visit couple of them for you and I do not follow any special key, like the most famous one, the newest one or any other. I will choose just as the idea would cross my mind. As today morning, I’ve seen a picture of DOX museum somewhere on internet, and almost immediately I decided to visit it now. The museum is on my plan quite long time, but today was THE day.

DOX, former factory building.

To read more information about DOX museum follow this link. I will share more my feelings about the museum :-). To be honest, my main goal was the visit of Gulliver Airship and the cafe and the design shop. I did all three, but then I decided to visit the exhibitions as well (mainly because you have to pay the entrance fee for the Airship which includes the exhibitions, and then there was no reason to skip them).

Gulliver from the street.

I started with the shop and then the cafe. I love Czech design and Czech designers, therefore I enjoyed the shop a lot. I have seen a lot of familiar names and pieces, but also some new ones.

Qubus DOX design shop

Jizerská collection from SKUBB.

Then came the coffee (and pink wine) time.

Museum Cafe.

Museum Cafe.

As you can see there were a lot of books at the cafe. Old books. For sale. 10 Czech crown per one, what is something less then 50 cents! How many do you think I purchased? 5! And two more at the other part of the museum!

But they all were quite nice famous books, 5 of the 7 bought books were criminal stories for my husband, Graham Greene, Mika Waltari, just 2 were for me, one my favorite childhood book (I know I have it somewhere but I can’t find it) and a first part of Skalholt books by Gudmundur Kamban (the second one I just got from similar book shelf at the train station). They also had a lot of Czech classis bookf, for example from popular writer Alois Jirásek, but these are too big and heavy to carry.

On the roof.

After the coffee (and wine) we went to see the Airship on the roof of the former factory. As it is cold, there is no special action happening there, but from April through the warmer months you can go there for lecture or performance. I have loved it :-).

Up the stairs.

Inside.

One more.

And back to the warmer part of the museum.

There were currently three exhibitions on program, and you will see some installation lower, but I really enjoyed the overall space of the museum, the technical style of it.

The coridor.

Fishes.

Fishes.

From three exhibition I am choosing one author from them for this picture. You wouldn’t believe what it is. Take a olook ant think. The name of the author is Luboš Plný and he is (wait for it) certified Academic model! As he didn’t made to the Art school, he attended the lectures as a model for students, even made a thesis and finally he got the title.

What it can be?

Hard to write: the author took everything that grew up in his “umbilical whole in the navel” (I am not able to find the translation of this one, the left picture) and put it on the scheme (the middle picture) and wrote the notes, what he wore that day and other information, what can influence “the product” (right picture). Creepy. isn’t it?

Pictures form the current installations here:

Last picture from the cafe terrace.

Found on WordPress:

https://openartdoors.wordpress.com/2018/03/05/lubos-plny-viva-lubos-plny-dox-centre-for-contemporary-art-prague/

Night Walks (3) – Yards of the Old Town (2)

Lights at the garden.

And now I go on with my walk through the yards of the Old Town, and its after dark. The previous part you can find here. We ended the previous post at Cathedral Cafe, and we are not leaving yet, as its courtyard is really nice as well.

And the next picture is really interesting, look at the white chairs and table, what they are standing at?

Is it a well?

Yes! It is an old well, older then the buildings, so when the buildings and courtyards were built, people just put halves of the well to the different yards. Let’s look at it from the other side.

Much better, what you think :-).

And a little closer look.

No water, but snow.

Courtyards of the Old Town and House by a Stone Bell.

Beautiful blue light at the yards of the Tynska street.

Brick a brack and cafe and private appartments.

House by a Golden Ring, museum that much worth visiting.

House by a Stone Bell stands on the Old Town Square and not long time age it had Renaissance facade. When I watch movies from 1970 and there are shots from this place, I wait to see it in its Renaissance version. But at late 70s they reconstructed the building and gave it the original Gothic appearance by taking down the Renaissance “dress”.

How it looks inside of the Stone Bell yard.

Look up.

And we are at the Old Town Square.

From Old Town Square I went through my favorite spot the Tyn yard to finish the evening at lovely Cafe No.3.

Ungelt (or Tyn).

Cafe no.3.

My espresso.

Cafe no.3 is fortunately (for me) empty at his time of the day and year, as it s cozy but small place with just a few seats and I am happy when I can have a chat with the owners Pierre and Zbyšek about life, taste Zbyšek’s delicious dessert (the pecan one, but others are great to). Sometimes I have just espresso, but mostly I get “štrudl” (hot apple juice with whipped cream and cinnamon), or London fog and white hot wine, that is just great as well.

Winter Walks (7) – Yards of the Old Town (1)

This post can be either in Night Walks or Winter, as I went out at the evening and it was freeezing :-). But still it was very beautiful to visit hidden yards and places just around the Old Town Square. Finally I decided to split the photos to before and after dark. And this post is about the before-sunset one :-).

I was happy to have a chance to visit the premises of the Monastery of Minor Brothers next to the Saint James Church at the Old Town. Its best years were in 14 century, when the weeding dinner of Czech King John of Luxembourg and his bride Elisabeth from Royal Czech Premyslid family (parents of Czech King and Roman Emperor Charles IV)) took place, next wedding celebration was the one of John and his second wife Beatrix. You can rent this place even now :-).

The refectory / ceremonial hall.

With its beautiful courtyard:

Paradise court of the monastery.

And even better pictures at the gallery:

After the visit of the monastery I have just wandered around the area, where originally meat and fish markets used to be, so the names of the streets will not surprise you – Masná (Meet st) or Rybná (Fish st) – and also the house signs reminds you of this business.

House U Podvinů

From Týnská street is also nice view to the spires of the Church Our Lady in front of the Tyn (Ungelt), or as we call it shortly Tyn or Ungelt, even thought the Tyn (or Ungelt, which is the same but in German and we historically use both names as synonyms) is in fact the courtyard behind the church.

Tyn church.

From Týnská street you can visit hidden courtyards.

Týnská 15.

Take a seat. Or not?

And as the dark is coming, you can also see the ceilings through the windows in enlightened interiors.

Look at the ceiling.

And finally some warming up in my favorite Cathedral Cafe.

Cathedral cafe.

Look through to its courtyard.

Cathedral cafe.

Night Walks (1) – Prague Castle

With Prague becoming really popular place, it is getting more and more difficult to visit the most famous places and really enjoy it, not to get hurt by someone else selfie stick and have the place for yourself. Therefore the best times to visit are early in the morning or later at the evening. You can find pictures how Prague Castle (and around) looks like after dark.

My beloved street Novy Svet (the New World) at night

And the view from the same place to the other side … yes, Prague Castle from the back

One more old time gas lamp of Prague

Army Church of Saint John of Nepomuk, not available for tourists, (just in case you are lucky and it is opened, peek in :-))

Private entrance at Hradcanske namesti

Don’t miss the Castle behind/under the light

We are getting closer to the Castle.

The main entrance, which serves as an exit only now.

I simple love these Plecnik’s round stairs, I had to make picture even at night.

Already in, entrance to the St Vitus cathedral.

Cathedral entrance detail, yes, the empty spots were never occupied by statues, did we run out of money?

It’s Majesty Cathedral.

And again …

… and again, from back now.

Private bridge from the Royal palace to the Cathedral.

Look at the beauty, from Castle to Little Town with St Nicholas Church dominant.

The Old Castle Stairs (Stare zamecke schody) back to the city.

Winter Walks (4) – Vrsovice (2)

Second part of our Vrsovice freezing walk, first one here.

Balcony in front of Rangherka with view to the church and nice building of saving company.

Our walk went on to the church and the area behind it, as it looks like you went directly from the city to small village with homesteads from 19 century in Botic stream valley, under protection now, but currently not available to go closer or inside.

What’s-behind-the-church gallery

One more street art on new reconstructed building.

Nice glasses :-).

Finally we crossed the border of Vrsovice back to Vinohrady area to visit Havlickovy sady (Havlicek’s Gardens). I have visited these gardens (and vineyards) many times, but always from the Vinohrady side, to visit the popular vineyard gazebo or nice grotta(east part), but never been to the western part until now. Therefore I was nicely surprised by the architecture and views from here.

Garden building with balcony, secret stairs and hidden places.

Details in the gallery:

View to Nusle and Bohdalec.

After the walking on the freeze we needed to warm and have some more hot drinks, and we visited nice Cafe Kavárna Pavilon Grébovka for tea and coffee.

Pavilon Grébovka.

Lovely and sunny, but we decided to sit inside. 🙂

With the coffee we fulfilled our daily plan for walk and drink and took tram home, with enjoying more beautiful buildings around the Gardens.

New York in Prague 🙂 (you must look closer to the sign on the light green building).

U Havlickovych sadu street, beutiful living

Other Winter Walks you can find on these links:
1. Letná
2. Vyšehrad
3. Vršovice (1)
4. Vršovice (2)
5. Kampa

The series about Night Walks can be found here:
1. Prague Castle

Winter Walks (3) – Vrsovice (1)

Another beautiful day in Prague, yeah, I know, it is freezing and it is getting colder and colder -9°C/15°F right now. But the sun shines like crazy and it almost makes you feel warm, when outside.

I decided to take a walk through the part of Prague, which in fact looks like Paris. It is called Vrsovice and it is more residential area with nice cafes and pubs, and it is not a coincidence that the famous Krymska (Crimea) street (nightlife) is there as well. The area is also really cosmopolitan, as you can guess from the streets names :-).

When I have finished this post, it looked to long to me, so I decided to split it in two. The second one is on this link (will be added after the second post will be published :-)): Winter Walks (4) – Vrsovice (2)

Mosaics by Free Mosaic

As there was a problem in the tram traffic today, we decided to walk to our destination through Vinohrady area, with some street art and first republic (1918-1938) villas and “colonia Svoboda (Freedom)”. This Colonia was realized between 1921-1924 as simple, but healthy and comfortable living at the new part of Prague. And it is in my favorite Artdeco – rondo cubist architectonic style.

One of the colonia’s double-houses in Czech traditional colors red and white and blue

And another one, this time villa in rondo cubism in red and white as well

Through the villas area we moved to the Parisien style quarter on this street:

Pink house at Norska (Norwegian) street

balcony detail at the same street

And doors in the gallery

After this little walk we entered one of the most popular cafes – Cafe Jen, but you can choose another one, like Cafe Slagr or Cafe Tvoje Mama (Your Mother), as cafe Jen was quite busy and we have to wait to find a place to sit. But then we have enjoyed our filter cafe and some warm and cozy atmosphere.

Cafe Jen from the outside

and the interior, just a short moment before the empty seats were taken

Warmed by the coffee we wandered on Kodanska (Copenhagen) street.

Just a normal residential house at Kodanska

and another one

and beautiful gables at the gallery

We continued to Heroldovy sady (Herold’s Gardens) with a book stall (we had to check it for something interesting) and nicely reconstructed palace Rangherka (seniors house now).

Rangherka from the bottom, originally built in 19 century by the entrepreneur in silk business Jindrich Rangheri, used also for breeding the silkworms and mulberry orchard with 200 trees next to it.

Gazebo above the stairs next to Rangherka.

Church if St Nicholas, baroque reconstruction from 1704, bell in the tower from 1511 and the clocks shows hours and phases of the moon as well.

Another view from the balcony to Husuv sbor (Hussite / reformed church) at Vrsovice Square, Nusle valley and Bohdalec hill on the horizon.

Find more at the second post about our walk in the next post.

Other Winter Walks you can find on these links:
1. Letná
2. Vyšehrad
3. Vršovice (1)
4. Vršovice (2)
5. Kampa

The series about Night Walks can be found here:
1. Prague Castle

Winter Walks (2) – Vysehrad

Vyšehrad (“higher castle”) is so connected with Czech history and the oldest legends from father Czech coming to Bohemia and settling here to be the place of the last resting place (as we call the cemetery) of famous Czech people. Vyšehrad is located a little bit far from the main touristic attractions, that can be the reason why it is so much loved by Czech people, visiting the place in every season, during day and night and enjoying its quiet space. Visiting beer garden (in summer), jogging, walking dogs or kids.

I visit this place often and in this cold but sunny day I decided to visit it with my camera. But I haven’t made the most popular pictures, just some views from Vyšehrad, and then I oriented more at the cemetery and church.

Vyšehrad is now a fortress, surrounded by walls and couple of entrance gates. The main entrance (Tabor’s gate) is followed by Špička (Top) gate, you will find just part of it, as the original gothic gate is gone now, and what remained is occupied by information center with model of Vyšehrad area. And finally there is the baroque Leopold’s gate to enter the area.

Tennis courts under the bastions and Leopold’s gate

Just behind the gate you will find one of the oldest buildings in Prague, the rotund of St. Martin, three of the remaining rotunds in Prague area.

St Martin’s rotund

I never miss going to the view to the South of Prague, where Podolí quarter is. Silver river is beautiful and unlike the Central area of Prague (around Charles Bridge), the river is quite narrow and deep here. If you have a chance to listen the music composition My Country by Bedrich Smetana, listen (at least) to the part which is called Vltava, and when you hear the royal fanfare, it means the river enters Prague under Vyšehrad rock.

River coming to Prague from the South

The I walked around Vyšehrad on the rampart with more views and finally there is the view to the Prague Castle.

The rampart walk with the church at the back

One more river with sport island and little port

Prague Castle and the whole city center in one view

St Peter and Paul’s basilica is wonderful piece of architecture, completely rebuild in puristic Gothic style by Josef Mocker at the end of 19 century. Surprisingly the interior is very colorful and decorated in art nouveau style.

Gallery (click on the picture to enlarge it)

After visiting the church I found myself wandering through the cemetery of famous Czech people, finding the names and tombs which I skip the other times, so lot of them were “new” for me as well. I love the cemetery as there you can learn a lot about our history, about our traditions, about our clever people, inventors, musicians, and others. And it is not only about people who are buried there, but also the tombstones itself are art pieces by popular artists, showing who lies underneath.

Gallery – click on the picture to see the full size

From Vyšehrad I descended to the river to make a picture of the less photographed cubist house and the to Náplavka next to the river, which was empty today but for weekend it changes to be the favorite farmers market place.

Gallery – click on the picture to see the full size

Josef Chochol cubist house under Vyšehrad

Náplavka on Vltava river

Náplavka with sauna on the river

Stairs up to the street

Another post about Vysehrad you can find here.

Other Winter Walks you can find on these links:
1. Letná
2. Vyšehrad
3. Vršovice (1)
4. Vršovice (2)
5. Kampa

The series about Night Walks can be found here:
1. Prague Castle

Winter Walks (1) – Letna

Prague is lovely city also in winter, when the number of tourists slows down (but not that much as expected). It can be freezing but when the sun shines, its nice and almost warm for nice walk. Find some pictures from the winter walk on Letná hill and area, which rises above the river and the Old Town to combine walk in the nature with beautiful views with wandering through the residential area with hipster cafes, pubs, or design places.

Buildings built on bastions of Prague walls

I started my walk at Hradčanská tram stop and walked by the former ramparts around the Prime Minister villa for the views to the river from Hanavský Pavilion.

Hanavský Pavilion was built in 1891 for the Jubilee World Fair, it is cast-iron structure built as a representation pavilion (commercial) for Iron and Steel Company.

The view from here is really beautiful :-),

Vltava river and some of its bridges (Mánes bridge, Charles bridge, …)

… and you even see the Prague Castle behind the Prime Minister villa.

And then I walked in the edge of the hill, enjoying the weather, watching dogs plays, joggers, seniors or mothers with babies walking around, not missing the view of Prague.
One of the most favorite places is also the monument, where the biggest monument of Joseph Stalin used to be, but now metronome and meeting point of young people is.

Metronome on large marble pedestal ( walk down the stairs and find stones from the whole Czech Republic incorporated to the pedestal) and the shoes.

My steps goes to the sporty area, finally I decide not to got to the cafe here but buy a cup at a stand and sit in the beer garden at the Letna Castle with views to the Old Town. The weather is too nice and even it is freezing, there is more people enjoying the sun rays and even cyclists drive by.

Winter cafe at the beer garden at Letná.

More garden in gallery:

After the sunbath I walked around the tunnel ventilation (see picture) between the Technical and Agricultural Museum to the Letohradská street with famous functionalist buildings and finally took a seat in one very famous and photogenic cafe – Cafe Letka for warming with a cup of cappuccino.

Café Letka

Cafe Letka is always full of people.

More cafe in gallery:

And even the weather was nice I decided to slowly finish my tour with some window shopping at the design stores on Letna’s main street (CVRK, Scoro Coco) and old time cafe with delicious sweets (Erhartova Cukrárna).

I didn’t miss the beautiful details on the buildings around me …

…and then I took the tram home.

Tram traffic.

Other Winter Walks you can find on these links:
1. Letná
2. Vyšehrad
3. Vršovice (1)
4. Vršovice (2)
5. Kampa

The series about Night Walks can be found here:
1. Prague Castle